Tom Arneberg's Lumix FZ20 page
One guy's informal observations about his new digital camera
May 2005, Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin

(Last modified: $Date: 2006/02/15 14:39:39 $)       ( visitors since 5/18/2005.)

Click on any section heading or subheading to jump directly to that part:


FZ20 Accessories

Using the FZ20


More info/links



I have been greatly encouraged by all the useful information out there on the Internet about digital cameras. I've learned a lot from web sites, newsgroups, and email lists. Since I have some informal experience designing simple web pages, I thought I'd use this skill to "give back" to the community by gathering everything I've learned about my new Panasonic FZ20 into one web page.

I am no expert! This is not meant to be authoritative information or in-depth reviews; it's just to relate my personal experience. My main goal for this page is to help jump-start a new owner of this camera. (I don't get a commission for any links here!)

Go to the table of contents to jump directly to the section of this page that interests you, or go look up some of the links to more info.


Tom Arneberg (
May 2005

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Digital vs. Film

I'm sure that everyone reading this either owns a digital camera, or is thinking about buying one. So you don't need convincing with a lot of details. But basically, here are my observations about the advantages and disadvantages of digital over film photography:
  • FREE shots -- the biggest advantage of digital, IMHO, is that the incremental cost of each picture you take is ZERO! Yes, the original equipment costs are higher than with film, and yes, you still have to pay for developing, but "free" pictures make a big difference in your habits. With my old 35mm camera, I was very careful with each shot taken, since every time I pressed the shutter, I knew it would cost me about 50 cents. Now, however, it is nothing to take 200 photos of an event. I have averaged about 15,000 pictures per year since 2001. That freedom encourages you to experiment and take lots of shots that you otherwise wouldn't.

  • Ready for computer -- another advantage of digital is that every picture you take is immediately available for the computer. For me, this means uploading to a web page, or using in a newsletter. For others, that means you can attach a photo to an email, or use a photo editing program to improve the picture. Yes, you can scan in printed photos, but that would become very tedious for dozens or hundreds. Because it's so easy with digital, I routinely take a couple hundred photos of, say, the high school band concert, getting closeups of every face I see, and upload them all. Each kid on stage has a mom out there who is often grateful to get a nice shot of her child.

  • Easy prints -- getting prints with digital is easier, in at least three ways:
    • You can get great prints from a cheap printer in your home. I don't do that much, though, because it's actually cheaper to bring it to a photo developer.
    • You can get only the prints you want. I never print all the shots I take; I only print the ones I really need a hardcopy of -- far less than one out of a hundred. I do all the sorting on the computer, and just burn a CD of the ones I want to print, and bring it in to a local one-hour photo developer (29 cents for double prints).
    • You can even upload the photos! Many stores now, even in the bustling metropolis of Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin (pop. 12,000), allow you to upload photos to their web page; you can stop by later and pick up prints. Very convenient!

  • More depth-of-field -- because the image sensor of a digital camera is smaller than a frame of 35mm film, you automatically get better depth-of-field in your shots. That means that more depth of the photo is in focus at one time -- say, everything from 10 feet to 40 feet away. Normally, this is an advantage, since you can use a larger aperture opening (smaller f-stop number) and a faster shutter speed, and still get things in focus. HOWEVER, this can also be a disadvantage, if you actually want LESS depth-of-field. For example, when taking a portrait, you might want to purposely throw the background out of focus. This is more difficult with most digital cameras, but can be sometimes accomplished by using a high zoom magnification and a large aperture opening (small F-stop number).

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My first digicam: Sony Mavica FD88

My foray into digital photography started with a borrowed Sony Mavica in July 1999. I took some pictures of a Chippewa Falls parade, and put them on the web. Our local newspaper ran a story on it, and I started getting emails from former residents in places like Arizona and Saudi Arabia. People loved it! I realized then the power of digital photography. Yes, I could have taken 35mm pictures and scanned them in, but it would be too tedious to do that with 163 photos. A digital camera made it effortless. I was hooked!

Later that year, a friend and I went together in purchasing a Mavica FD-88. It was only $1000! But it was still a little too expensive to justify having my very own camera.

The FD88 had an amazing resolution of 1280x1024, or 1.3 Megapixels, and had a very useful 8X zoom lens. It also wrote its pictures to glorious floppy disks. That was a big advantage for me, since a floppy was automatically compatible with every computer I used at the time -- Sun Solaris, IBM AIX, SGI IRIX, Windows, Mac, and Linux. Talk about compatibility!

The floppy, however, was not without its problems. After using the camera for a year, many floppies would get corrupted and I'd lose photos. Also, I used the FD88 on a six-week sabbatical vacation in 2000, and had to stop often and buy more floppies along the way. They were cheap, but they did take up room in the RV! To squeeze more photos onto each floppy, I lowered the resolution of a majority of my once-in-a-lifetime shots to 640x480. I figured those still look fine on the monitor! Needless to say, I wish I would've brought along a laptop for storage, and taken photos at full resolution (although I would've needed a bigger gadget bag to carry around all those floppies every day).

In September 2001, after about 20 months of hard use, the Mavica FD-88 simply stopped working. I brought it to a dealer to see what it would cost to fix, and he just laughed -- not even close to being worth fixing.

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My second digicam: Olympus c2100uz

I got lucky with the Olympus c2100uz. Sometimes you're just in the right place at the right time! After my Mavica experience, I knew I wanted a long zoom lens (like my Mavica), and solid state memory (unlike my Mavica's floppies). I had been looking at the Olympus c700 at the local Best Buy -- it had a 10X lens, and SmartMedia storage, and at $500 was only half the cost of my Mavica.

However, I also discovered from newsgroups and web pages that there was another Olympus camera in about the same price range that also had a 10x lens and SmartMedia storage. This one, the c2100uz, had something called "image stabilization" in its lens. Was that worth the extra weight? And why would the same company have two cameras priced the same that look so different? I didn't know, so I determined to find out.

What I learned is that this c2100uz was no ordinary consumer camera. It actually debuted at $1300 in 2000, and the review in "" noted that when its price dropped to $900, it was a good deal. By the time I started looking, places like CompUSA were selling it on clearance for $500! I decided that the bargain price and extra weight were worth it to get that big lens.

I don't want to write too much about the c2100uz here, since this is supposed to be an FZ20 web page. Suffice it to say that the c2100uz is a great camera, and I have loved using it! Even with only 2 Megapixels, I got great-looking 8x10 prints, due to the super lens. And the 10x image-stabilized lens allowed me to get many photos in low lighting at slow shutter speeds, hand-held.

(By the way, this camera was the 35mm-killer for me. This was the first time I used digital to get color prints... I used my Mavica only to get shots for web pages and newsletters; it never even occurred to me to get a color print out of it! But once I started using the Oly in November 2001, I literally have not touched my old Pentax ME Super 35mm camera since.)

Alas, all good things must come to an end. In the course of taking about 45,000 pictures, I dropped my trusty Oly several times, and by 2005, I had a broken media door and a broken battery door. I had to hold both doors in just the right position to take a picture. When the zoom lever spring broke in March 2005, that was the last straw. I now had to very carefully position the lever in the center, to prevent zooming all the way in or out...while still pressing the two doors just right. It became very tedious to take any picture, and I lost several "moments" fiddling (including a bride walking down the aisle). Time to get a new camera!

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Why I chose the Panasonic FZ20

Now that I had tasted a 10X zoom lens with image stabilization ("IS") on my c2100uz, those were minimum requirements for my new camera. I read that the Canon Powershot S1-IS had an IS 10X lens, but only 3 Megapixels. I know, I said that 2 MP was enough for an 8x10, but if I only buy a camera every 3-4 years, I was kind of hoping for a bigger jump than 2 -> 3 MP.

That hesitation in purchasing the S1-IS was to my benefit, as Canon announced the S2-IS on April 22, 2005! (See specs at dpreview.) Wow -- not only did the resolution improve from 3MP to 5MP, but the image-stabilized zoom also went from 10X to 12X! It also has some cool movie modes (although I tend to use my camcorder for movies, not my camera). The only catch for me was that Canon said this would not ship until June 2005. I wanted one at least by mid-May, so I could learn how to use it before a three-week vacation in June. So I kept looking.

In my research, I read about the Panasonic FZ20. I never would've even considered a Panasonic digital camera -- never heard of them, and never saw them in a store. But the FZ20 story was compelling -- 5 MP, 12X IS zoom, around $500.

The FZ20 had the same basic specs as the newly announced S2-IS, but I started noticing something about the FZ cameras. They had a cult-like following, reminiscent of c2100uz fans. I am truly not an expert in digital photography, but I have come to trust the opinions of those who are experts, and many of them loved the FZ20.

In fact, I read of many users who were die-hard c2100uz fans who ended up moving to the FZ20. Some of them had even tried "upgrading" to other cameras in the last year or two, but ended up going back to their trusty Oly. In discussion lists and web pages, the FZ20 was appearing as the first camera that you could transition to from the c2100uz without losing something you like.

Note that there are many other models in the Panasonic FZ family. I chose the FZ20 over the others because it had the most features -- things like manual focus override, flash hot shoe, and low-light focus assist lamp are important to me. What all the Panasonic Lumix FZ models have in common is the awesome 12X Leica lens that can maintain a constant 2.8 aperture throughout its entire zoom range. The quality of the lens on a camera is rather subjective, and doesn't appear in most list of specs...that's why you need to read lots of reviews and gets lots of user opinions before selecting a camera.

I did briefly consider a digital SLR camera, too, since those are now down to about $800. There's no dispute that the image quality of a dSLR is better than a "prosumer" camera like the c2100uz or FZ20. But if you start looking at an image-stabilized lens for a dSLR, you can add another thousand bucks or two. And even if money were no object, the dSLR is heavier and bulkier, especially with multiple lenses. If I were a wedding photographer, there's no question I'd get a dSLR. But for what I do -- get hundreds of pictures of Boy Scout campouts, concerts, school plays, family vacations, etc. -- a "prosumer" camera is good enough, and much more convenient.

The bottom line is that the Panasonic FZ20 is a great camera. The Canon S2-IS may be great, too; I never had a chance to use one. There's also a Kodak 12X IS camera shipping in June that might be worth a look. But as with computers, when the time comes to buy a digicam, you have to choose the best one that is available right now, because better and cheaper ones are always around the corner. The FZ20 is my camera for the next few years.

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My columns on digital photography

I am not a Real Writer (I make my living designing chips for supercomputers), but I am a "community columnist" for our local newspaper here in Chippewa Falls, the Chippewa Herald. I have written a few columns on digital cameras over the years. Beware that some of these are dated, and that they are meant for general-purpose audiences (i.e., not camera buffs)! So they are quite watered down; read at your own risk:

Date Headline
12/07/2002 Parade ignites love of digital photography
07/17/2003 Digital cameras are here to stay (but buy the right batteries)
05/07/2005 What to do when it's time for a new digital camera
04/22/2005 Digital cameras offer more choices than ever

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FZ20 Accessories

FZ20 camera

I could not find the FZ20 camera in any local stores like Best Buy. Fortunately, plenty of mail-order places carry it. When I was looking in late April, 2005, had it for $499, but when I finally decided to go buy it, the price had gone up to $599! (The list price was $699.) I did some more searching, and ended up finding an even better deal than my missed one on amazon; I got mine for $467 at (which was referenced from

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Extra batteries and charger

While searching for a new camera, I was hoping to find another one that used rechargeable AA NiMH batteries. After choosing the FZ20 despite its proprietary lithium-ion battery, however, I actually like it better. It's much smaller and lighter than I had expected, compared to both the NiMH AAs of my c2100uz and the lithium-ion battery of my Sony Mavica. In fact, the Panasonic CGA-S002 battery with the charger is lighter than the four AA batteries alone!

I need at least two backup batteries, so I can have one in the camera, a spare in the carrying case, and one in the charger at all times. Panasonic batteries are expensive ($45), but I found a generic equivalent -- the Lenmar DLP002 -- for only $27.54 (, May 2005 includes free shipping):

Update 5/15/05 -- The charger that comes with the FZ20 seems to work fine, and is surprisingly small, but I also bought another charger that works in the cigarette lighter in your car. It was $15 plus $10 shipping on ebay (May 2005), and included a different compatible battery. (Search ebay for "DMW-BM7 charger kit"). When I received this battery and charger, I was a little disappointed because the battery doesn't fit as well into my Panasonic charger, nor does the Panasonic battery fit perfectly into this charger. However, I was able to charge the new battery and force it into my camera, and it seems to work okay. It is very nice having a charger that works in the car.

Update 7/12/04 -- other users report that this Maxell battery (DC3784) also works fine in the FZ20. (I'd buy one, but I already now have FOUR batteries!)

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SD memory card

One of the great things about upgrading my digicam was getting away from SmartMedia memory cards. Those top out at 128 MB, whereas the Secure Digital (SD) cards used in the FZ20 go over a Gigabyte! Being price-driven, I wanted the lowest cost per bit. This led me to a Sandisk 1 GB (1024 MB) SD card, which was under $70 at as of May 2005:
(The smaller cards -- 512M, 256M, 128M -- were more expensive per bit, and the 2GB card was well over 2X the price of the 1GB card because it is so new.)

Update 5/24/2005: A friend told me about a 512MB Kingston SD card that is only $30 after rebate at, with free shipping! I just ordered one. Here is the link:

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72mm filter for included adapter

As with all my past cameras, the first thing I did for my FZ20 was buy a uv (ultraviolet) filter simply to protect the lens. If it gets scratched, it's much easier to buy a new filter than to repair the lens!

However, because the FZ20 lens extends when it's powered up, you can't put a filter on the unaltered camera body. Fortunately, the FZ20 comes with a lens hood and an adapter. If you screw on just the adapter without the lens hood, you can use any 72mm filter. I had heard that larger filters were more expensive, so I looked for a bottom-of-the-line one to get started. I bought a new Hoya 72mm uv filter from "Spotlight Photo" on ebay for $12.75 plus $2.50 shipping:

[ebay search for "hoya 72mm uv filter]

One of the things I didn't like about the FZ20 compared to my old c2100uz was the lens that extends when you turn it on and retracts when you turn it off. Not only does this use extra power every time the camera goes on and off (including "sleep"), it also exposes moving parts to the elements.

Since I use my camera for backpack trips, hikes, canoe trips, etc., I prefer having no moving parts exposed. By using the included adapter and the 72mm, I am able to, in effect, have an immovable external lens, just like I'm used to!

Unfortunately, there is a problem with this setup. Because the included adapter is so long, it interferes with the built-in flash when the lens is at its widest zoom:

Note the shadow of the lens adapter
at the bottom part of the picture.

The problem gets even worse when
the subject is very close to the lens.

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Pemaraal adapter, 62mm filter

Pemaraal to the rescue! This small company, whose name comes from the initials of the founder and his family (PEter, MArgaret, RAchel, ALex), sells specialty items just for the Panasonic FZ cameras! Their PD62 adapter, at left, is shorter than the adapter that comes with the FZ20. I bought one ($32 as of May 2005) and tried it out, and sure enough, it gets rid of the shadow caused by the longer Panasonic adapter. I also bought a multi-coated 62mm UV filter ($19) from Pemaraal. Here is the page with all their FZ stuff:

Now I am happy. My camera's moving lenses are now always enclosed, and I no longer have the flash problem. The camera with this shorter adapter also fits better in my carrying case.

Update 5/24/2005: I just ordered another 62mm filter, this one a circular polarizer. I've been reading about how much better they make outdoor shots -- increasing color saturation and contrast by reducing reflections, etc. -- and it was only $12.99 with free shipping, so I thought I'd try it out. It is a "Sunpak CF-7060 CP 62mm Circular Polarized Filter":

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Carrying case

In my old 35mm Pentax days, I brought along a gadget bag with external flash, extra lenses, film canisters, etc. Since starting digital photography in 1999, however, I have grown accustomed to bringing only a camera and a few small essentials (memory cards, batteries), all in small case that I can carry all day on my shoulder. This started with the Sony Mavica case, then for my c2100uz, I bought a Tamrac 5514 zoom holster carrier. I LOVE this case! I put the camera nose-down, and don't even bother with a lens cap. (The camera is either being used, or in the case.) I carry it wherever I go, including four-day backpack trips. (I sling it over my left shoulder and carry it on my right hip, after putting my loaded backpack on.) It provides protection and keeps the camera always within one-handed grasp. I usually only snap in the buckle, so I can withdraw the camera more quickly. But if you want more protection, you can also zip the top of the case shut. (I keep a gallon-size Ziploc freezer bag in the upper compartment, so I can protect the camera in case of rain.)

And the 5514 case was only $20.50 at BH Photo in 2001. I just checked, and that model is no longer offered as of May 2005, but this Tamrac 5314 appears to be very similar, and even a little cheaper ($19.95):

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External flash

One thing I've missed in digital photography is using an external flash. On my old Pentax ME Super 35mm camera, I used an external Vivitar flash. An external flash not only provides more distance between the light source and the lens, reducing the red-eye effect, but it also allows you to bounce the flash off a white ceiling or wall, or send it through a diffuser. The result is a much better-lit photo with softer lighting.

My Mavica provided no way to use an external flash. My Olympus c2100uz did have one option, but the proprietary Olympus flash cost something like $400 -- almost as much as I paid for the camera! So I did not buy one.

One of the reasons I chose the FZ20 is because it has a "hot shoe" that allows the use of generic external flashes. This web page put together by Jim Zimmerlin shows how this works:

I have not bought one yet, but when I do, I will go through the link on Jim's site, to give him a small commission. I don't mind doing things like that to reward people for spending time explaining things to us newbies. Oh, BTW, one other reason I want an external flash is that it uses its own batteries. I can use my rechargeable NiMH AA batteries for the flash, which will let my FZ20 battery last longer.

Update 5/25/2005: (Jim's link) seems to be out of these, and I didn't want to wait any longer, so I just ordered one from "B&H Photo" for $70 + $4 shipping:

Be sure to read Jim's site, though, for tips on how to use the Sunpak 383 with the FZ20.

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Ultrapod: mini-tripod

One accessory that I've been using since the 1980s is the "Ultrapod." This is a very small tripod that weighs only two ounces, but can be very handy while backpacking, canoeing, biking, or hiking. It allows you to get a group shot with yourself, or will steady the camera for you. (I got some nice night-time shots of Times Square in New York City in June 2005 by screwing my FZ20 into my ultrapod and setting it on top of a trash can.) In addition to standing up on its own, it can also be attached to a pole or branch with its velcro strap.

I got mine at REI, where it's still only $10 as of May 2005:

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Using the FZ20

Getting files onto a Linux computer

One nice thing about modern digicams is that, unlike my circa-2000 Olympus, the FZ20 can plug into your computer's USB port and act just like an external hard drive -- no extra software or drivers needed. On Windows or Mac, I understand that you can just drag the files over.

I use Linux, so I have to do an extra step of "mounting" the camera. (I also need to do a couple one-time steps with "root" permission: creating the mount directory, and adding it to the "/etc/fstab" file.) I wrote a little C-shell script to copy all the files for me, preserving the file timestamps and keeping track of status:


Now all I do is plug in the camera, "cd" to a directory where I want to put the photos, and type in "read_fz20".

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Changing filenames to include dates

One of the disappointments of my FZ20 is that it does not choose filenames based on the dates. I had assumed that all cameras were like my c2100uz, embedding the month and date into the first three numbers of the filename. For example, here are the filenames my Oly would've used for pictures taken on these dates:

  P3170001.JPG -- "317" = March 17 (3rd month, 17th day)
  P7041234.JPG -- "704" = July 04 (leading "0" for day < 10)
  PA310123.JPG -- "A31" = Oct. 31 (months are in hex: "10" -> "A")
  PC250452.JPG -- "C25" = Dec. 25 (month "12" -> "C")
This is very useful when organizing files, and I couldn't imagine living without it.

I was able to write a Perl program to rename all my FZ20 files to this format:


This program looks at the actual "timestamp" of the file to determine the date on which the photo was taken. (This means that you need to preserve the timestamp when transferring from your camera to your computer; I do this in my read_fz20 script that I use to get files from the FZ20 into my Linux box.)

Using that date info, it renames the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th characters in the filename (which seem to be "100" or "101" on the FZ20). It's amazingly quick -- it will get timestamps and change the names of several hundred files in a directory, all in under one second of total elapsed time!

To rename all the jpg files in a directory, you just have to do this:

% rename_files_with_dates *.jpg

I don't usually type that command, though, as I call this renaming function in my read_fz20 script so it runs automatically after the files are copied to the computer.

(BTW -- this should work on most operating systems -- AIX, IRIX, Solaris, Linux, HP-UX, etc. I suppose it may need some tweaking to work on newer systems like Windoze, though.)

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Organizing files with Mopfish

One of the big advantages of digital photography can lead to problems. Since taking photos is free, you tend to take a LOT of them! (I've averaged about 13-15,000 per year lately.) How do you organize all those pictures?

I'm sure there are a lot of great solutions out there, but I sat down in 2002 and wrote a 1500-line Perl program to deal with this. It's called MOPFISH -- "Manage Online Photo Files In Static HTML". This runs on Linux, and makes two copies of each jpg, one small and one medium. The small photos are all displayed on one screen, and the medium ones are organized into a user-controlled slide show. You can add a title or add text to any medium-size file by editing a plain-text file that contains the names of all files in that directory. My goal is to release mopfish to anyone who wants to use it, but I have some clean-up work to do and am having trouble finding the time to complete it! :-/

I try to download pictures from my camera at least once a week, or after any major event. I organize directories of 50-200 photos each, based either on dates or big events. Then I run mopfish on each directory as it is created. I run another little program to link all the directories together with arrows (I want to make this part of mopfish). You can see several sample mopfish galleries here:

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Pleasant surprises about the FZ20

I knew a lot about the FZ20 before I ordered it, even though I had never actually seen one in the flesh, through all the great web sites and discussion lists (see links). But here is a list of "pleasant surprises" that I wasn't expecting:

  • Small battery -- since I used rechargeable AA NiMH batteries in my c2100uz, I was hoping to get a new digicam that used the same. Not only could I continue to use the several sets I already had, but AAs can be found anywhere for a low price. I chose the FZ20 despite its proprietary battery, not because of it. Once I got it, however, I ended up actually favoring it over the AAs! It's easier to swap in and out, MUCH lighter (the lithium battery and charger weighs the same as the four AA batteries alone!), and only costs around $20-25 for generic compatibles.

  • Flash recovery time -- I wasn't prepared for how quickly the flash recovers to be ready for the next flash photo. I don't know if it's due to the flash, the camera, or the battery, but all I know is that I was pleasantly surprised how quickly I could take new flash shots compared to my old c2100uz. (And of course this might not even matter, if you use an external flash on your FZ20.)

  • Quick review mode -- You can set the FZ20 to display the photo you just took for 1 or 3 seconds immediately after it's recorded. What's even better, you can get it to display normally, then zoom in, then go back to record mode automatically. Cool! I used instant review a lot on my c2100uz, but on that camera, the only way to do it was to set it to a photo mode (burst?) that had a minimum shutter speed of 1/30th of a second.

  • Sturdiness -- the FZ20 seems sturdier than my c2100uz in a few ways. First, the mode dial is more recessed, making it less prone to the type of damage sustained by my first c2100 the day after I got it! (To their credit, CompUSA sent me a replacement camera.) Second, the door holding the media and battery seem stronger than the doors on my Olympus, which both ended up breaking (admittedly when I dropped the camera on the floor).

  • Size/Weight -- I chose the FZ20 despite the fact that it was slightly heavier than other FZ models, so I was surprised that the FZ20 was actually thinner (easier to grab with my right hand) and lighter than my c2100uz:

    Olympus c2100uz Panasonic FZ20
    Camera with batteries 24 oz. 22 oz
    Camera w/batteries & two extra sets 31 oz. 25 oz

    (I did the weighing on a postal scale in my kitchen and rounded to the nearest ounce; both cameras included straps and filters (and 1.5-oz adapter for the FZ20).)

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Unpleasant surprises about the FZ20

I am not the kind of person who complains a lot, and none of these are big deals, but I thought I'd also keep track of unpleasant surprises. None even came close to making me regret my purchase, but were small disappointments nonetheless.
  • File names don't include dates -- having the month and date embedded into the photo file name was something I had become accustomed to, and I thought all cameras did that now. I was able to overcome this deficiency by writing a program to correct it.

  • "Review" is different than "play" mode -- when taking pictures, you can click down once to get to "review" mode to see the last shot you took. You can zoom in and pan around, as expected. What I couldn't figure out is how to get the 3x3 grid of shots, how to look at what shutter speed, ISO, and aperture it used, or even how to see the bottom part of the photo! It wasn't until after several days' use that I realized that turning the mode dial to "play" (green arrow) enabled all that stuff. In other words, the "review" and "play" modes are different. I was used to those being just two different ways to get to the identical mode (and wish it were that way on the FZ20).

  • Bottom part of photo is shadowed when using adapter -- I knew from reading the manual that I should not use the included hood with the flash, but I didn't realize that using even the adapter would also cause shadows on your photo. Fortunately, I was able to correct this by buying a Pemaraal PD62 adapter that's shorter than the included one.

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More info

There are some great resources out there to help you learn more! Here are some of the ones I use:

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Thanks for reading my web site! If you spot any errors in spelling or grammar or facts, please let me know so I can correct it.
Tom Arneberg (

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